Wednesday, 27 April 2022

The way to Modify The Brake Pads and Rotors.


Do-it-yourself and spend less! Save money by doing-it-yourself. No matter the manner in which you say it, it can actually add up. I like the phrase so much that I do believe I'll make it my new mantra. Maybe you ought to too. I've literally saved thousands of dollars by doing my very own auto repairs. One of many coolest DIY projects you can do is performing your own brake job.

This job is not at all hard in comparison with other repairs but you can find quite a few steps involved and they should be followed carefully. We're planning to break it on to 3 parts; (1) removing the brake pads, (1a) removing and replacing the rotors (brake discs), and (2) reinstalling the brake pads. If you're just replacing your brake pads, skip 1a and jump to part 2 after completing part 1.

I ought to mention that we're discussing disc brakes only. Disc brakes will either be located on the front wheels only or both front and rear. Some vehicles have drum brakes on the rear wheels and the task for replacing them is slightly different. Are you currently ready? OK, let's get started.

Parts list

Brake Pads

Brake rotors [a.k.a. discs] (if applicable)

Brake rotor hold-down bolts (if applicable)

Caliper guide bolts (replace if bad)

Caliper guide bolt bushings

Brake pad sensor wires(if applicable)

Brake parts cleaner

Anti-squeal compound

Brake parts grease

Anti-seize compound

Tools list

Breaker bar

Ratchet & Sockets (SAE and Metric)

Allen bits for ratchet

Various screw drivers

Wire cleaning brush

Caliper piston tool/medium C-clamp

Shop rags

Bungee cord

Nitrile gloves

Rubber mallet

Torque wrench

Part 1

Changing the brake pads

First, determine if your going to replace the pads at all wheels or perhaps two. You'll replace the pads in pairs, front wheels or rear wheels. For a whole job and best results, do all 4 wheels. If your financial allowance and/or time constraints won't allow it, do front or rear. Leading wheel brake calipers, pads, and rotors are bigger than those on the rear and cost only a little more. The procedures for both are simply the same.

By determining whether the brake job is for just two wheels or four will even determine whether you'll jack the leading, rear, or both ends of the vehicle. When you yourself have a direct effect gun to remove the lug nuts from the wheels, you can proceed with the jacking. When you yourself have to remove the lug nuts utilizing a crowbar, you ought to loosen them a little (breaking the seize) while the wheels are on the ground. After the wheels come in the air, they might turn freely, which will make removing the lug nuts very difficult, or even impossible. Safely jack the automobile and then support it on jack stands. Never perform work while an automobile is supported by a jack. Jacks fail and perhaps you are putting your daily life in danger.

Once a wheel is removed, remove the anti-rattle clip (if applicable) by prying it and sliding it out with a sizable screwdriver. Next, let's remove the brake caliper. For the leading wheels, it could be necessary to show the steering completely either to the proper or even to the left to access the caliper guide bolts. Typically, they are on the back side of the caliper. The caliper guide bolts could have dust caps. These will be made from rubber or plastic. Work with a small screwdriver to pry them out. After the caps are removed, the bolt heads will be exposed.

Using your ratchet and the right socket or Allen bit, remove the 2 bolts. Grasp the caliper and pull it away from the rotor. You will need to use a large screwdriver to pry it loose. Remove the two brake pads from the caliper, prying if necessary. One brake pad may be attached with the caliper piston by a clip. Loosen the clip and the pad will fall out. If your car or truck is built with brake pad sensor wires, carefully remove the wire from the pad. The sensor wire will be using one pad of either the proper or left wheel. Make note of which wheel gets the wire.

Now, its time and energy to re-compress the caliper piston. As brake pads wear, they cause the piston to push further and further from the caliper. The piston must be pushed back so that you can fit the brand new, thicker brake pad in place. You need to use among the old pads and a piston compression tool or c-clamp to push it back in. Simply place the old pad on the top of piston and tighten the tool or c-clamp to press it back place.

Use your bungee cord to hold the heavy caliper from the spring or suspension carrier as you get ready to put in the brand new pads. Never calipers to hold by their brake lines because they are heavy and will damage the line. Place a few rags underneath the parts and spray brake parts cleaner liberally to the caliper, bolts, bracket, etc. to thoroughly clean everything. You will need to utilize your wire cleaning brush as well.

Part 1a

Removing the brake rotor (disc)

If you're replacing your brake rotors as well, follow this procedure. Since the caliper is removed, its time and energy to remove the brake rotor. First, you need to remove the caliper bracket. It's this that the caliper was resting on and can be where you previously unscrewed the caliper guide bolts. The bracket is connected via two bolts. You'll need to utilize your breaker bar and the right socket to remove it.

After the bracket is remove, its time and energy to remove the brake rotor (disc). The rotor is held in place by either a couple of hold down bolts. These bolts will be comparatively smaller than the others and may require the usage of your Allen wrench. Support the brake rotor as you loosen the bolts. Take away the bolts. If the rotor does not come off, you will need to use a rubber mallet and hammer it from the back to loosen it. Corrosion involving the rotor and wheel hub could have caused it to seize.

Reinstalling the brake rotor

You'll reinstall the rotor in the reverse order. To stop the rotor from seizing to the wheel hub, apply a thin layer of anti-seize compound to the wheel hub before putting the brake rotor back on. I'd also put only a little anti-seize compound on the threads of the rotor hold-down bolt. Tighten all bolts making use of your torque wrench set at the right setting.

Apply a thin layer of anti-seize compound to the threads of the caliper bracket bolts as well. Be mindful not to get any on the surface of the rotor. Following these steps can make the next brake rotor change a breeze.

Part 2

Installing new brake pads

Note: Some anti-squeal compound type require curing for at the least six hours before installing the pads on the vehicle. See the instructions on the product to determine whether you ought to apply it to the back of the brand new pads on the night before.

First, apply the anti-squeal compound to the back of the pads, never to the top that comes in touch with the rotors. Take away the bungee cord and support the caliper. Next, carefully install the pads to the brake caliper. The 2 pads should differ in features and fit which means you shouldn't get confused as to which fits where. If your car or truck is built with brake pad sensor wires, carefully install the wire in the pad.

Install the caliper/pad assembly over the the top of brake rotor. Be sure to seat the brake pads to the notches of the caliper bracket. Align the holes in the caliper with the holes in the caliper bracket. Apply a thin layer of brake parts grease to the caliper guide bolts and slide them in. Tighten the bolts making use of your torque wrench at the right setting. You will find the bolt torque settings in your service manual, owner's manual, and obviously the internet. Your local auto parts store will be helpful as well. Reinstall the caliper guide bolt caps to help keep the brake dust out.

Reinstall the anti-rattle clip (if applicable) making use of your large screwdriver. This may take a little patience and for me, this 1 step took the most time. Persevere.

Once you've completed pad change, you can reinstall each wheel.

Test drive

The next thing would be to break the brake pads in. This procedure is also called "bedding" the brakes. You will find lots of details about this procedure on the internet. Basically, it involves making a series of stops from 55 mph while applying more brake pedal pressure with each successive stop. Five to ten stops is generally all that's necessary.

Performing your own brake job is not difficult and the savings may be huge! And undoubtedly the confidence boost you'll get. I know you can do it. I have confidence in your abilities. Tell those service managers "I'll handle it", the next occasion they fight to split up you from your own cash. I sure did and you'll too!

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